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Triumph TR6 - Stubborn Wheel
|My buddy just purchased a TR6, and as we started the overhaul process we encountered something I have not seen before. We cannot get the right front tire off of the vehicle, period. Over many years at this, I have seen some stubborn wheels that required kicking and sledge hammers and various other forms of persuasion, but this one simply will not budge. Anybody run into this before, on any type of car?|
|May I venture to guess it's a wire wheel? I had one once that was unpersuasive. Finally freed it by CAREFULLY driving it in a tight circle, backing up, with front wheel pointed "in" on that side so the friction force pulled "out". It quickly freed, and new splines followed! Nothing says you can't go forward - I was just backing out at the time. Just be careful and check things frequently - you don't want to lose the wheel!|
|If its runnable not wires use Brents method but just loosen the nuts 2 turns. Saves a lot of damage to studs.|
|I'm with Bill, my 99 Jetta has that problem once in a while loosen nuts and back and forth while applying brakes to bust the rust loose.|
|If its a mag. wheel then by-metal corosion is the problem. Read once somewhere to put never-seize on hub flange before mounting tire . Some even put thick wax paper between. dave|
|Curious why no anti-seize?|
Grease I can understand as it has a low melting point and you do not want to liquify it in and around the brakes.
A-S is good up to several hundreds of degrees. We all use it on the sliders on the calipers
|All good suggestions, guys, but unfortunately will not budge. FYI, it is a stock 4-lug triumph wheel, not aftermarket or wire. Unfortunately we don't have the luxury of a hydraulic lift to get the whole vehicle up where we can safely utilize more creative methods of putting more influence on it from the inside out. I suppose it's time to punt and bring it to a shop. Don't want to do anything stupid that may cause other (more serious and expensive)problems.|
|Long ago and far away, a high school friend bought a Healey 100-6. One of the first discoveries about this car that had been sitting for a few years was that the hydraulics were thoroughly shot. We struggled and fought and such trying to get the wire wheels off that car so we could get to the leaky bits, all to no avail. We finally had a flash of insight that was unencumbered by ethics. A chain of brake repair places with a reputation for ripping people off offered free brake inspections. We cleaned everything up, threw some fluid in that beast and drove to the nearest location. They fought with it for about two more hours, finally getting the wheels off, performing the brake inspection, then giving an estimate. We thanked them for the estimate, left, stopped at the BAP store for parts on the way back to his house, and made the repairs.|
|Since "most" of those lead in ads are designed to nail unsuspecting Grandma's bank accounts.|
I highly recommend Steves suggestion. Geeeez I aplaud it. Not that I would do anything like that myself though??? :)
But watch some of the newer operations and some old they actually try to hold the vehicle hostage. Saying the vehicle is unsafe. Tell them it was safe till they got at it and just threaten to call the police. Crooks don't like that word.
The last part is from wifes 66 yr. old sisters experience. She drove in for a brake inspection and was told her cars brakes were OK but she needed $600.00 in exhaust work before they could let her leave? She could die at any minute driving that car. No leaks found on second inspecion. BBB when called had a list a mile long on same shop.
So do unto others before they do Grandma.:)
|I was told of a recent article in a Toronto paper about a full inspected (everything OK) car that would not start and was taken to several locations. Sears estimate for repair was $1,600.00. The car had a loosened battery cable at the battery. At the end of the article it was said that Sears returned the 1600 bucks. KNOW THY MECHANIC!!! or DIU!|
This thread was discussed between 07/04/2003 and 13/04/2003
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