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Triumph TR6 - temporary frame/dolly for body
|Hi all Ive been busy on the car again lately and am almost ready to remove the body. As far as I can tell I still need to weld in some door braces (great play by play on the archives for this). I spoke to a body shop that was recommended to me and he said he would want the car on some kind of wood dolly so he could move it around his shop. Would also make it easier to move and transport from home as well. I wonder if anyone has made one or has seen specs or plans on the internet anywhere? Thanks again for all your advice john omeara|
What's the car going into the bodyshop for? Are the front fenders on or off. How strong is the body? Are the sills and floors OK?
Do you have a Mig welder? Metal frames easier to do and cheaper even with the price of steel right now.
I don't know of anything on the net. And believe me I searched. I am doing a body off myself and can probably give you a plan from what I've done. Will need some idea of what your objective is and how far apart the body is though.
|Hi Bill Thanks for answering me back. The body , floors ,sills, Aand B posts and frame appear quite solid so far. I have the car almost completely dismantled ; all 4 fenders interior dashboard wiring harnesses etc. the reason I'm removing the body is twofold. firstly to give me access to the frame to check and repair anything there. I've heard you can get considerable rust between the floor and the top of the frame. the second reason is to get a superior paint job dont to the car including the inside of the outer fenders and the inner fenders while I'm rebuilding the brakes suspension etc. I do have access to a mig welder and would be interested in any sketches or advice you have to make a transport type frame. I hope I've given you enough information I do have over 100 pictures of the car at various stages of the dismantling and could probobly convince one of my teenagers to show me how to send you some! thanks john|
I can measure up a jig from the frame mounts. With just the tub it doesn't need much. Square cart would be ok. Floor tabs underneath are a fit thing not just flat.
Are you planning on having all the paint work done at the same time, or just the tub some reassembly and then the final work and exterior paint?
If there going to reassemble on the cart to paint you may want something a bit longer front mounts to back? Point of balance. Let me know?
Heres my e-mail just remove the XXXs gives the internet bots a bit of trouble scanning. Will send a few frame pics back on areas you may need to look at.
I presume you are going to strip the body (of paint:) first. Have you decided on which method? I do not recommend sand blasting.
If you are doing a body off, you should go down to bare metal.
Glad to hear you have lots of .jpgs'. You will appreciate this when you do your "scrap book".
|Hello to all the wise ones on this board. It has been many months since I have written on this board but I assure you that I have been reading it daily for all the great tips and advice. Well, I have finally removed my rust bucket of a body, from my rust bucket of a frame. The last comment as well as the archives makes me have to ask a few questions. I was planning on getting the frame sandblasted and then repair all the metal damage. Then, when I got further along, I was planning on having the tub similiarly sandblasted and then metal work repairs done on it as well. So, the question arises, why shouldn't I have the tub sandblasted and does that apply to the frame as well. I don't ever plan on selling this car if I ever get it back together, and I don't want my grandkids to ever deal with a rusty frame in their lifetime, sooooo will sandblasting the frame cure my rust issues or do I need to dip it instead? I was thinking of coating the repaired frame with that rhino liner stuff you find in truck beds. Will that keep the rust away or will there still be rust on the inside of the square frame that the sandblasting can't get to? Thanks in advance for your help|
Sand blasting the body causes warping unless done super carefull. That rarely happens because the guys only getting a few bucks an hour to point the nozzle?
Soda blasting costs more same guy more expensive lighter material. Will not remove deep rust paint only?
Other option is tanking in acid. Problem with that is rust will be gone but the tanking leaves some acid in spotwelded seams that may cause problems with more rust and paint adhesion if it seeps? I would have a pro look at it and advise what needs to be done.
Frame can be blasted outside only. Inside you would have to tank. Inner boxing is all spot welded so theres the catch again. My suggestion would be a quick blast to show the problem area's. Do your repairs and then have a good blast and coat with epoxy primer imediately and your choice of paint. Then oil coat inside. I am going with Fluid-Film myself inside. Stuffs been around a long time and stops the rust. Been testing for a month here on a piece of 16 gauge outside. So far so good?
Main reason is its cheap enough in bulk to do a flow fill trying to get all inside surfaces coated despite the baffles.
Do not use the Rhino on bare metal. It has no rust prevention whatsoever and chips easy. I've got a whole truck bed full of it? 2 foot drop of a half inch bolt chips it. Pure junk. The cheap tar stuff actually works better if you must go that route.
Bill said it all and I add a few comments. Sand blasting does NOT leave a smooth surface.Soda blasting leaves a very "flat" finish with little work to prep for primer. Also body pannels will not warp...like Bill says, with sand blasting it only takes a second to warp a bonnett then kiss it goodby. Soda blasting will not remove deep rust (blow it away like sand will) but at least it shows up so you can have it repaired. Both leave a lot of sand/soda behind in the little cracks and crevices...you will find some first time you turn on the heater:). I have no experience with dip tanks but have not heard "do not dip your tub/frame".
Agree with Bill, no rino lining. Several options for frame including powder coat. Most important thing for both tub and frame is IMMEDIATELY after you get it to bare metal, have it primed.
Have fun Pinto
|Thank you again Bill and Rick. As always, good words of advice. I think it will still be a few weeks before the frame is completely stripped. I think I'll probably have to sandblast the frame and then coat the inside like you suggested. I'll also ensure that I have it primed right after it gets to bare metal. Thanks again, I'll keep you all posted.|
This thread was discussed between 25/10/2004 and 28/10/2004
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