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Triumph TR6 - Thrust Washers
Since my sump cover is off to clean / reseal and hopefully stop that pesky leak !! I started thinking about my thrust washers. I've read about them in various articles and even though they show no excess play I was wondering if it's just a matter of undoing the rear main and slipping in new washers ?
The engine has only 59k on it and I understand Triumph recommended replacement at 60k.
Anyone done it this way from the bottom ??
Do you have a spring compressor for those darn front springs I can borrow ?? I've borrowed 2 different types but they don't fit.
|Charlie--I'm doing my TW's now. Very easy to do. Have you determined your existing end float? If it exceeds 0.008, then you should renew at least the loaded side TW. I measured 0.010 so I'm replacing the loaded pair (sump off for cam replacement anyway). I'm having solid bronze alloy TWs machined for my application; read more about that at: http://users.arczip.com/zntech/tr6.html|
Instructions are here: http://www.vtr.org/maintain/thrust-washers.html
Note that Bentley is incorrect on TW insertion (oil grooves).
|I did this in two evenings last summer and had no real difficulties. My front TW had no apparent wear and mic'ed fairly close. The rear was visably worn, but the total wear did not account for all the play measured. New standard TW's would have left me with more end float than I wanted.|
Therefore, I went .005" over on the replacement rear TW. Next Winter I plan to rebuild the top & bottom. (clutch, driveline & suspension are more urgent!)
I also had fun replacing the fuel line, evap line, oil filter, etc. at the same time the TnkRtoy was in the air. (All the while cursing the PO for neglect and praising the same for not botching it up even worse!)
PS: Heading to SW Florida on Saturday as long as conditions don't delay me in Milwaukee!
Sorry did not see this. No I don't have exact type. It's an insider fairly easey to make. Moose has a strut spring unit thats pretty versatile. Will try it tomorrow.
It's pretty easy to make a front spring compressor, you need a bit of 1/2" screwed rod 18" long, a piece of heavy flat bar about 4 1/2" long drilled to fit across the lower shocker mountings and a couple of heavy duty washers and nuts. Because it fits up through the centre of the spring it is pretty much failsafe.
|Charlie, yea, what Ron said. Take a look in either a Moss or Roadster catalog at their spring compressor. That is all it is, a big threaded rod and a plate that fits onto the spring pan, drilled to clear the studs. It is not the fastest tool out there, but it is pretty much fail safe.|
If you want nasty, try a Spitfire or GT6 front sometime. They have what amounts to a nonadjustable coilover. I tried the "hook" type spring compressors and scared myself silly on spring removal. When it came time to reassemble, I made a double pan set up with four threaded rods to both compress and contain the spring. Even then, it was not as fail safe as the TR plate and rod type, slower too.
Yup, the boys have it right with the threaded rod. Did mine that way but was easier with the tub off....could do it from the top. Add a little grease to the threads where the nut will run up.
Just cut a couple of pieces of 1/4 plate...pick up some threaded rod tomorrow....
Counting the days ( 6 weeks ? )to try my new poly bushings
You guys in warm places are sooooooo lucky !!
This thread was discussed between 19/02/2004 and 22/02/2004
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