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TR parts and Triumph parts, TR bits, Triumph Car Spares and accessories are available for TR2, TR3, TR3A, TR4, TR4A, TR5, TR6, TR7, TR8, Spitfire and Stag and other TR models are available from British car spares and parts company LBCarCo.

Triumph TR6 - Towing the TR-6

I wonder if anyone has experience using a tow bar to tow a LBC? I need to be able to move my TR-6 (under restoration) about town, to the paint/body shop, sand blast person, engine shop etc all within about a 20 mile or so radius. I'd use a tow strap and a helper, but the brakes are inoperative and I'm not yet ready to rebuild the brake system so I need a hard (rigid) connection between the TR and the towing vehicle. I designed a rather simple A frame towing apparatus and checked with a couple of local fabrication/welding shops and got prices approaching $400!! I found several tow bars that appear will work, online, for less than $150; some as low as $50. My intent was to remove the front bumper which has to go to the rechrome shop anyway and use the bumper mounting brackets as the attachment points. I invite your comments, especially if you've had experience doing this. I know that I can trailer the car, but towing it just seems simpler and definitely more convenient. BTW, I don't have a trailer so if I went that route, I'd have to rent or borrow one. Thanks.
db
D R Baker

Hello DB,

As you can see from my thread r/e Help No Brakes, I just had my car towed. My suggestion is to use a flat bed truck. The muffler, on mine anyway, is very low, and if you were to use a conventional tow truck, I'm sure you'll bottom out.

Ted
Ted

Ted, Thanks for the thought, but I don't have a flat bed tow truck availabe w/o expensive rental. I need a capability to repeatedly move the vehicle around from place to place over the next year or so. I'm leaning to purchasing an adjustable tow bar from Tractor Supply Company and attaching it to the extensions from the frame that hold the bumper on. Then I can tow it by myself with my Jeep Cherokee.
Doug
D R Baker

db,
Several years ago, I did the same thing. Used a tow bar to haul short distances for various stages of my project. The bar I used clamped to the front bumper. Not the best solution.
But as you pointed out, you are removing the bar for rechrome, and not attaching to the bumper itself. My "opinion" is that the bumper attach points may not be the best spot to attach to. If the tow bar can be directly connected to the frame itself it may be a better solution. Although it may not be readily available to fit the TR.
Whatever you do, do it thoughtfully, as you do not want to have to do any thing over on the resto.

Good luck,

Mark Riddle
Mark Riddle

Mark,
Thanks for describing your experience. You understand my quandry. The bumper attachment is a u channel bolted to the frame. I'll assess the "strength" before moving the vehicle. The front valence is still there so I'll need to cushion that or fabricate some attachment plate, TBD. Tractor Supply Company has a neat adjustable A frame tow bar for $129.99 that looks like the best bet.

BTW, Tricity Plating looks to be the best choice for replating that I've found. Their prices are less than other places in the area.

In your area, FYI, is Hendrix Wire Wheel Shop in Greensboro. I was over there a few weeks ago having them inspect and assess the wire wheels I inherited with this TR. Seems to be the ONLY wire wheel truing and adjusting shop East of California.

db
D R Baker

Others should weigh-in here, but I think there are gearbox lubrication issues if you tow with the drivetrain installed. If you do that, I believe you should disconnect the prop shaft.

Rick O.
Rick Orthen

db,
About 10 years ago, I towed mine from Texas to Florida, about 1300 miles, using the exact method you are describing. Removed the front bumper and attached a universal tow bar directly to the front bumper mounts. Attached safety chains and a set of those magnetic tow lights. Of course for this distance I did disconnect the drive shaft at the differential and secured it out of the way. Donít forget to unlock the steering column and make your turns wide.

Tom
Tom Burke

Hey guys,
Thanks for the comments. The drive shaft will be disconnected before towing. Tom did you encounter any difficulty with your cross country experience specifically related to the towing lash up? At most, I expect to go less than 30 miles at any one time or trip; most will be more like 2-5 miles. How did you protect the valance or did you hook to the bumper stand off mounts? From what you describe, obviously the U channel extensions from the frame proper to the bumper are strong enough to hook to directly.
db
D R Baker

There was a guy in Red River Triumph Club that used to make tow bars for TR5/TR250/TR6 that attached to the tie down loops sticking out from the front lower pan. I'll see if I can dig up contact information for him and see if he still makes them, cost, etc.
SteveP

db
I experienced no problems at all. The U shaped brackets on my tow bar bolted directly to the bumper mounting points. The tow bar was attached to the brackets with pins and the pins were held in place with spring clips. No damage was done to the vehicle.

Tom


Tom Burke

Doug
Sounds like you are getting there on how to tow your project. Remember one thing about the prop shaft. It is easily totally removed at both ends from tranny and Dif. Gives a person the opportunity to check those UJs.and be able to re-grease the sliding spline.
Rick C
Rick Crawford

DB-what part of Alabama are you located in?
Don K.
DON KELLY

Don K.
I'm in Huntsville...not exactly what you might expect Alabama to be...if you've been here you'll understand.
Doug
D R Baker

On a related note...

I have a '79 Spitfire (not much action on that board)with the J-type OD. On the -uh "remote" chance that I should ever be stranded and need a tow, is there a proper way to do it, without wercking the OD (besides a flatbed tow)?
T. M. Brex

TM--I don't think the O/D presents any additional issues. To be completely sure, I'd put the gearbox in a permissive gear (with the engine off) and cycle the O/D column switch a few times to relieve all hydraulic pressure from the unit. I wouldn't tow it with the rear wheels on the ground more than a few miles unless you disconnect the prop shaft at the diff.

Rick O.
72 TR6
Rick Orthen

It appears from the latest posts this thread that a "take note" is being said. I now have taken note..thanks guys. The flat bed tow is obviously first choice. Second if you are on the "hook" demand that the back wheels go on the dollies. I think 99.9% of tow trucks have the dollie wheels. Third, on the hook with prop shaft disconnected..watch that tail pipe.
In Ontario, I have heard it is illegal to tow a car using a tow rope.
Rick C
Rick Crawford

Rick,
I've purchased a tow bar which I will attach to the extensions to the frame where the front bumper is affixed. Issue now is the brackets for the tow bar have two bolt holes and I have only one so I'm discussing with my physicist colleague whether I should drill a center hole that will work for my connection and if one bolt will suffice. If so I'm in business and out only $130 or so! I will disconnect the drive shaft cause it has to come out anyway, but to do so my Bentley manual says to take the exhaust off first. Since I plan to replace the exhaust with a SS, no problem there. I have the single pipe, original to the 71. Is there any advantage to going to a dual pipe hookup?
db
D R Baker

Doug
we are discuusing your trailering issue in 2 places. Do not worry, I will get my act together:)

Yes, up to end of 71 was single pipe. We can not go dual because of exhaust manifold. But if you go with headers then I think you can. I am not the engine expert..others would know answer to this question better. If my project had not come with a brand new exhaust system, I would have gone SS.
Rick C
Rick Crawford

The main reason you have to disconnect, or better still, remove the drive shaft when towing a TR with the rear wheels rolling, is that the rear output shaft of the overdrive does not turn the oil pump in the overdrive and this lack of lubrication will ruin the overdrive.

Don Elliott 1958 TR3A
Don Elliott

DB- Sorry to take so long in the reply. Just to let you know there might be 1 more 6 in the Huntsville area. My wife is waiting to hear if she is getting a transfer. And the cities that are appropriate for her job, Huntsville is the likely choice for us. Please elaborate on your answer.
Don K.
DON KELLY

GEEESSS Don, you just built your fancy garage. But then you will have a longer driving season and a little bit less rain:)
Rick C
Rick Crawford

Don Kelley,
Please let me know when the decision if final. I'll be happy to assist with relocation package, realtor referral, community info. etc. BTW, I'm sure that you're aware of the interview process for prospective new residents...:) We can't have just anyone in on one of the best kept secrets in the South:)

Take care and good luck with the move.
db
D R Baker

Rick - Actually more rain but a lot less often.
DON KELLY

This thread was discussed between 05/05/2004 and 11/05/2004

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