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Triumph TR6 - tr6 clutch?

Which clutch setup is the best,i was thinking of installing a borg&beck thanks ian

Hi Ian

There has been an awful lot of debate about this. From my understanding, the B&B has been changed due to company takeovers over the years. The other "standars" alternative is the Laycock, which is now LUK. This is apparently the way to go, but they were sold out everywhere last summer when I was looking. If you want to go that route then have a look at - they claim to supply every other company with their LUK kits, ad their price is $130 for the 3 piece kit - a lot less than the TR partts places (part number is 19-030, as I recall).

The TRF magic clutch kit is basically a B&B friction disc, Sachs pressure plate and a throw out bearing of your choice. The standard bearings are apparently no good these days (RHP brand), the alternative is a Koyo bearing (from a Toyota Landcruiser) which is a much heavier duty item than stock. You could go down the Gunst bearing route, but it seemed like more complexity than I wanted to add. I got the same parts (B&B friction/Sachs Pressure/Koyo bearing on a new sleeve) from BPNW for about $180 - a lot less than TRF charges for the same parts (though I think they throw in a few dowels and such). It went in with no problems and the 100 miles or so I drove the car before taking a lot of parts off it went with no clutch issues - I think the pedal pressure is lower than stock with the Sachs playe, but that doesn;t trouble me.

Hmm, I seem to have gone on for a long time. I hope that at least some of that was a bit useful!


I am in the process of putting things back together after replacing the clutch in my TR6. There seems to be problems with TR6 clutch replacement parts and different opinions of the right way to go. There is a lot of information on the web regarding the different combinations available. I ended up using the Sachs clutch with the Toyo or land cruiser throw out bearing combination available at BPnorthwest. The following are several interesting articles regarding clutches.

It is likely that the fork shaft pin is broken and in my case I replaced the shaft, fork, pin and as well installed a second pin as shown in this web site.

I am sure that there are others in this forum that are more experienced and knowledgeable than myself regarding this subject but these sites will get you a good start in your research.


David B

Try this one again

David B

Very good reasearch.
Good job Lad.
David, last link not working.
Rick Crawford

The Gunst Bearings have been having use problems and a few failures. Would not advise at this time.

Hi Ian et al

I am interested in any ongoing experience with new clutch installations. I posted the "Sachs clutch" thread, which is running concurrently, to enquire for the best parts source. On Tuesday I ordered the parts on-line from BPNW and UPS knocked on my door in Oakville the next morning - awesome service. I went for the Sachs and Koyo bearing plus new cross shaft& bearings,release yoke and pin - will have some experience to report around April or when ever the snow goes and the garage warms up.

Keep in touch.


75 TR6
B.J. Quartermaine

I used the cheap repalcement bearing over 15K miles ago and still absoluely NO problems. My grandfather taught me years ago to pack any bearing with grease, and on clutches, grease the input shaft, the grooves on the clutch disc, the fingers on the pressure plate, ect.,ect.,ect. It seems every clutch teardown I see, the pressure plate seems dry. Bone dry. I only know I have been driving TR6s for over 30 years now, and the only throwout bearing failure I ever have are on the ones installed when I bought the car. I am now on my 14th (and last I think) TR6.

Can you share your technique, on how you pack your
throw out bearing.
Thanks Joe
Joe S.

I had purchased and installed the Sachs clutch with Koyo bearing which I purchased from BPNorthwest this winter. One thing that was nice was that the throw out bearing was already pressed onto a new sleeve but I discovered that the the "roll pin" Moss #325-335 had not been installed. I really hated separating the bearing from the sleeve to install the pin from my old sleeve. After having called BPNorthwest to advise them of the oversight I was informed that the pin had not been installed intentionally. I cannot advise whether that pin is important or not, just reporting the occurance and how I could have avoided separating the sleeve and bearing and pressing them back together.

David B

Joe, I just put grease in the palm of my hand and then rake the bearing through it, forcing grease into the bearing. You just keep doing that, turning the bearing, while packing it, until you can't get any more grease in it. The sealed bearings obviously can't be done this way.

Gene, do you pack your trow out bearing with grease, or are referring to wheel bearings etc. just to avoid some confusion?
David B

Yes. wheel bearing grease seems to work fine. Again, I grease any possible part that contacts metal to metal.

This thread was discussed between 18/02/2007 and 06/03/2007

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