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Triumph TR6 - TR6 in the snow, shall I modify with rear shock conversion?

Québec city is supposed to be the Capital of snow, unfortunately it is not the case and it renders more difficult having a TR6 resting for winter. Today's subject: I owned a '75 TR6 for many years and I want to improve handling. I added an ADDCO rear sway bar. Presently I am considering buying a rear tube shocks conversion. Catalogs advertized an handling improvement. What are the real facts on that matter. Thanks. J.G.C.

Hi, I own a TR6, and a rear shock conversion is for me a good improvement in handling but you have to choose a good one, there is an article in the last triumph world issue about this. For me I would by the kit from racetoration, the supports are in aluminium and you don't need to modify the fixation's point as they do in the triumph world article.
Moss make an equivalent but the arms are in steel (it is cheaper but steel and snow are really good friends with rust :-) ).
As I am a student, I tried a cheaper solution: an upgrade of the original lever arms. You can do it by yourself, there is a small valve to move, change the oil and you're set. But one day, I'll put the racetoration's kit.
Could tell me if you are satisfied by your adcco antiroll bar and what kind of modifications you did to put it.

Thanks for your comment,

Thanks for infos. I see that you are in France (vous êtes français?) an I do not know if ADDCO are avaliable in your area. They are inexpensive ($150 CDN) and easy to install. I remember that I have only to drill 4 holes at the rear frame and few bolt-on stuff. The improvement is great and the next step will be to add an uprated front sway-bar from the same company. Tube shock conversion is very attractive, but unfotunately I do not know, The Triumph World, but I will ask at newstand.
If you need more info feel free to ask. Cheers, J.G.Catford

I drive a 1970 TR6PI since 1973. the best conversion to rear telescopics is provided by Revington TR in U.K. Listed on TR Register Homepage.Shock absorbers are located in the spring,need a little welding.the next best option consists of a system of 3 steel triangels bolted to the original fixing points and to inner and outer body.the problem with the arms as discribed earlier is that the clearance for the wheels is too small.The best shocks are SPAX or KONI
Regards Jean
Roulleaux Jean

Do you know thwe model # for Koni with that rear Kit.
Many thanks, best regards, Jean-Guy

Hello J.G.
The Konis I use are Koni adjustables Nr 80-2167,they are not cheap,but some of my friends also use the Spax - a little cheaper-described in Triumph World with the steel triangle construction.I bought the set in Holland, but it should be available from all TR parts suppliers.The set consists of 5mm steel triangles - six in all-one is bolted to the original fixing points and supporting the body close to the inner wheel arch,the second one on the inner side above the first one facing the inner sill,the 3rd triangle is fixed in mirror view to the second one in the wheel well and is the upper fixing point for the shock absorber.All 3 make a very rigid construction.The is running like on rails.The set described in T.W. is rubbish.Spax shocks are very good.
Roulleaux Jean -

Bonjour Jean,

Many thanks for the infos. I found that aluminum is the best idea and will stick with it. Unfortunately in Canada TR6 with PI engines were not sold and it is a shame, as these car must have more pep.
Best regards, Jean G.

Hello Jean G.

Unfortunately I share the same frustration as you do in keeping my 1970 TR6 under wraps until this Canadian Winter passes. It's heartbreaking! You were kidding about driving your TR in the snow weren't you? As per the thought of a rear suspension conversion...DO IT!!! This past summer I recently installed a Spax Conversion Kit ($450 CDN). The adjustable Gas Spax Shocks have improved my handling 1000% and the entire system was quite simple to install! If you do go the "kit" route, there are many available. The KYB Gas Shock kit ($325 Cdn) and the Koni Kit ($625 Cdn) are two that have been strongly recommended to me. It is imperative, that you go with gas shocks. The KYB kit is probably the favorite today because it fastens to the original lever-arm shock mount and not the wheel well as the Koni and Spax kits do. Stay away from any kits that involve changing trailing arms. Good Luck!!

Trevor Christie,
Toronto, Ontario (brrrr it's cold here!)
Trevor Christie

Sorry about the e-mail address error. I forgot to add an "e" on the end!


could you provide me with the part # for the rear sway bar. I'm currently upgrading the whole front suspension on my car and I would like to do both sway bars too!

Thanx. TC
Trevor Christie

Hello Trevor,

I will check this evening and give you the right # tomorrow. I saw that Toronto is under a lot of snow and this remember me to tell you that I do not drive my TR6 in winter. But I remember to have seen on Younge st at - 26°C (a rare event in Toronto) a MGB with the top fold down. Concerning sway-bar ADDCO have stronger model to replace stock in front also. I checked their site at and the right model is 929. But no matter I doublecheck at home. I remember that mine was from Toronto, this mean that someone could sell it near by. May be Peninsula if they are still there.
Cheers, Jean G.

To anyone contemplating fitting rear shock conversion brackets that simply bolt onto the two original mounting points for the lever-arm - BEWARE. I fitted a pair of neatly welded aluminium brackets from a UK supplier. Within 6 months of road use ( not in snow , we dont get too much of that in Cheshire UK ) the chassis frame was fracturing. The fracture ran from the mounting plate downwards to the bottom of the diff-mounting cross member across the front. The problem was cured - at least for the past three years - by bolting the top of the s-a bracket firmly to the side of the body. Access to the bolt heads either side of the fuel tank is OK. The fore-aft rocking movement of the bracket is abolished , presumably. The car is used for mild competition in sprints and hill-climbs , which have not up to now been snow-coverd , fortunately.

This thread was discussed between 10/12/1998 and 22/01/1999

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