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Triumph TR6 - Trailing arm adjustments
|Was viewing a page a few days ago that had all the info for trailing arm brackets and specs . Can no longer find it in my 'bookmarks'. Does any one know this page? |
I think this might be it....
I still haven't been thru all the info on that site... but I think if you need help, it might be there!
|One key point to remember is that the rear suspension should be allowed to settle and be loaded when the final tightening of the trailing arm pivot bolts is performed as tightening these pivots with the suspension unloaded can adversely impact the camber setting. If you don't have a pit or a access to a drive on flat lift platform, it is the one and only application where I see the use of ramps as being beneficial. Since most of us don't have a pit or ready access to a drive on flat lift, try to round up an assistant. Have the car backed onto the ramps by the one of you that will stay in the car with the brakes applied, the other will chock the front wheels and then dive under the car and tighten the trailing arm pivots.|
It can also be done without the assistant, but you must set the emergency brake hard, exit the car and chock the front wheels as safety issue. The last thing you want is the car moving on the ramps and either dropping off the back or rolling down the front side side of the ramps. This should be considered a get under it, get it done and get out type of job.
|Thankyou, that was the link. My driver side has way more neg camber than the right. seems changing the bushings is the very first thing to do, then go from there. Don't want to do this twice. I'm not very mathematical, but I now see what needs doing here.And yes, I will load up the suspension before I tighten anything. Peter G|
|And here's some more (identical?) info from Brian in Winnipeg in case Nelson didn't cover it all: http://members.visi.net/~kohout/trailarm.html|
This thread was discussed between 01/03/2003 and 03/03/2003
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