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Triumph TR6 - Trailing Arm Bushings

I am planning to replace the trailing arm bushings on my TR. Anything I should be aware of or careful on? Any preferences for poly over rubber?

Hi Shawn

I did my TA bushes last winter. No real problems with the bushes. The old rubber ones came out pretty easily after a few cuts on the lip at one end (I used wire cutters, there are probably better tools for the job) then hammer them through using a suitable drift (to use Haynes termonology). I used poly to replace them since they are so much easier to install - though I hear using threaded rod and washers makes installing standard rubber bushes pretty straightforward. I haven't noticed any problems with the poly bushes, though I must admit I haven't driven very far on them.

One word of caution - I would suggest that you wear blinkers while doing it - there are a lot of other jobs you will find to get involved with "while you are there"!

A Hewitt


I bought stock trailing arm bushings from Moss last year (still in the package) and now that I have my own garage up I'm ready to start on the small stuff that's been bugging me these last three years. The point is my bushes are totally "perished" and the trailing arms are clunking. It's not U-joints or the diff mounts making the racket. Popular opinion says the poly bushes are harder and create a rough ride. I don't think it can get any worse than it is now with the old units. Any current comments on going with poly? I know there are previous posts but an update from somebody who has done it recently would be a big help.

1976 - TR6
Bob Evans

Go here first: I strongly recommend the nylatron bushings and adjustable trailing arm brackets.
Bob: The ride in my car, if anything, is better, because the trailing arms swing easier with Richard's brackets and bushings. The tolerances are tighter, yet the arms rotate easier. The original rubber and the poly tend to create a bit of a bind, not so with the nylatron. plus you can add in grease fittings to keep everything lubricated.
I went through 2 sets of poly bushings in 3 yrs, kept collapsing on the drivers side. Never could figure out why, but TRF stood behind them, sent new ones out, but I couldn't see replacing them a 3rd time.
The adjustable brackets made life very good, took about 30-40 minutes total to set the rear camber, but you need to have an alignment shop do it that will work with you, as these need a little caution when adjusting.
Having said that, I have driven my car over 25000 miles in 4 years. It don't sit in the garage much during the summer!
Rod Nichols

I second Rod's recommendation on Richard Good's bushings and brackets. Making camber changes without those adjustable brackets is a pain somewhat removed from the neck. They work so well that it even convinced one of my tight fisted friends that they were worth parting with the requisite brass for his car while the rear suspension was down for repair.
Steve Pike


Thanks for the tip guys. Sounds like good advice and a whole winter ahead to do it.

Bob Evans

I third Rod's statement. I wish that they where available when I redid my TAs.


You could find them on page 63 of Prothane cat. from their web site:

(Stag 2000)
64 & L Rear C-Arm Bushing Kit, 27-46067
(TR5, TR6)
68-75 Front C-Arm Bushing Kit, Lower Inner 27-45096
68-75 Front C-Arm Bushing Kit, Upper Inner 27-45095
68-75 Rear C-Arm Bushing Kit 27-46067


J. G. Catford

This thread was discussed between 21/09/2007 and 02/10/2007

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