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Triumph TR6 - Trailing Arm Frame Member

Hi,
I'm in the process of fixing my rusty Tr6 frame after having removed the body. I've been pricing
trailing arm frame repair kits from different sources such as Moss, Roadster Factory, Rimmer Bros and have noticed a difference in the prices of these kits. I'm assuming that these varying prices may
be related to the quality of the actual parts? Does any one have any experience with the above?
I even thought of buying 1 repair kit and getting the local sheetmetal shop to fabricate another one. Is this
a realistic thought?
Also, there are a couple choices when buying trailing arms bushings - original rubber ones, heavy duty
rubber ones or poly ones. I was going to upgrade to the heavy duty rubber rather than the poly.
Is the extra cost of the harder bushing worth it?

Thanks in advance for your help!


Aivars Berzins


Aivars Berzins

I cannot address the frame repair question, but have installed urethane bushings in the tailing arm. I have not proceeded with other suspension upgrades other than the front bushings which are nylon. I would advise this: my urethane apparently squeeks, others report the same. Nylon with stainless sleeves self-lubricate. Be sure the suspension mounting brackets contact the sleeves and do not press against the bushing flanges. I did not notice any ride deterioration, it always was somewhat rough.
Dennis
dennis costello

I HAD HEAVY DUTY RUBBER ( ROADSTER FAC. ) INSTALLED LOCALLY BY A RESPECTED BRITISH SHOP. THEY THOUGHT THEY WHERE NOT VERY WELL MADE. THEY REALLY DISTORTED ON INSTALLATION. WHEN INSTALLING ARMS BACK ON CAR I DIDN'T THINK THEY FIT WELL . I AM THINKING OF REPLACING WITH POLY OF SOME KIND AND I HAVEN'T EVEN DRIVEN ON THEM YET. I JUST DIDN'T LIKE THE FIT
DON

I fitted "Silentbloc" bushes, which are steel bushings with a bonded hard rubber core. They give very little play and a hard ride, but stop the rear wheels moving around. When fitting it is essential not to bolt up the trailng arm bolts until the car is on its wheels. (This is tricky without a pit or hoist). The same applies to any bushes, if you want to avoid rapid deterioration.
Peter Cobbold

I just replaced the frame sections for the trailing arms. I took my time in making some detailed measurements from different points on the frame to different sections of the pieces I was going to cut out. I used a metal cutting blade in my 71/4 in circular saw to cut the old sections and clean up areas where the old welds were. I also air chisseled off the upper and lower breast plates. I started fitting and measuring the new sections with the measurements I took from the old sections and when they were in place I cleaned up all around where the new welds would be. When the box sections were where I wanted them I drilled a small hole at each end and put in a sheet metal screw to keep the parts in place. My brother-in-law and nephew came over (they have a mig welder and are experienced at welding) and it took about 3 hours to weld the frame and breast plates. It looks like new. I got all the parts from Moss Motors and it was well worth it.
Bill Lydon

a guy i met recently has a tr6, he had the body off and had one of the trailing arm frame kits he purchased welded onto the frame both passenger and drivers side, looked better than new, new never could of looked this good. i'll find out this weekend which kit he bought. it's nice.
bob

This thread was discussed between 28/03/2001 and 16/05/2001

Triumph TR6 index

This thread is from the archive. The Live Triumph TR6 BBS is active now.