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TR parts and Triumph parts, TR bits, Triumph Car Spares and accessories are available for TR2, TR3, TR3A, TR4, TR4A, TR5, TR6, TR7, TR8, Spitfire and Stag and other TR models are available from British car spares and parts company LBCarCo.

Triumph TR6 - Triple Stromberg Carb setups

I think the triples deserve a thread of their own rather than being buried in my greetings opener. I have seen the Good Parts setup both in action and stationary. His TR6 hauls the perverbial ..s. Many perf mods on that babe. Having gone the webers path once I am not planning to repeat too black or white, like a tr clutch either engaged or not. Strombergs have that traditional ring to them being a part of LBC's for so long. They look good particularly if buffed up. And why not?
In any event I am interested in other intake manifolds that may be out there. The Good parts intake is good but I think a little pricey for three pieces connected by black hose. Is there an alternative, i.e. 1 piece intake? I am also curious about tuning, best metering needle for performance in the low-mid (2500)to 4500 turns range. Info and pics are welcome.
Thanks all!
BTW it is supposed to be 17C tomorrow in southern Ontario, The pimply white ball is going into play...fore!
B.R. Horne

Hey. I think the number of other triple manifold suppliers amounts to a goose egg (nuk, nuk). You have to pay to play, as they say. The manifolds are really quite nice.

The stock needle provides fine performance, especially with an uprated cam. The only bad part is sometimes it van be hard getting the idle down - one then usually starts disabling by-pass valves and temp compensators....

Brent
'73 TR6
Brent B

Hey B.R.: speaking of the 'pimply white ball,' check out www.golfcross.com.

Rick O.

Rick Orthen

Brent, Brent,

As any, ahem OLDER, Stooges fan can tell you it's spelled:

"nyuk, nyuk".

"goose egg" indeed.

jeesh.

Jim (insert something cute here)
Jim Deatsch

I have the triple stromberg setup. It was worth every penny. My 6 runs great. The best part is I still use stock rebuild kits.
DL Harding

I have been curious about the triple set up, but was wondering if anyone has set one of these manifolds kits up with SU carbs. If so, HS6 or HIF6/HIF44 carbs and if HS6s, which float bowl orientation was used? Anybody out there in TR6 land tried it one of these ways?
SteveP

You have to use the HS6 carbs. The float bowl is on the bottom. There is not enough room for the carbs with the float bowl on the side.
DL Harding

I have always thought the triple carb setup a somewhat complicated solution; when I had my TR6 I was toying with the idea of 2inch SUs.. the intake manifold could be reamed out 1/8th inch all round and you might be able to use the original linkage.
Then you only have 2 carbs to synch instead of 3; has anyone done this?
Simon, WOFTAM Racing.
Simon Rasmussen

DL, do you possibly mean to say the HIF series? All H, HD and HS series have the float bowl off to the side, with bowl side orientation and bowl angle a variable for specific fitments. The H(orizontal) I(ntegral) F(loat) series had the float bowl below the carb throat. I would prefer to use HS series (as I have some HS6 carbs sitting around) if I were to go this route. Please confirm your intent.
SteveP

Are the folks who have triples doing anything else to improve breathing (porting, polishing, headers, higher ratio rockers, lumpier cam)? Or is the triple bolt-on all you need for a satisfying result?

Rick O.
Rick Orthen

My mistake. Steve you are correct. You have to use the HIF series. There is physically no room to mount the SU's with the float bowl on the side. I tried. You can only mount the HS sreies carbs if you use only 2. I have been looking for 3 two inch SU's. Rick, my 6 ran better when I just installed the triples. But you really see the difference when you do the extra's you mentioned.
DL Harding

Rick, and all, I'm a relative newbie to the Triumph world and I love the car as she is. However, I am modifying incrementaly so I know what each improvement achieves.So far, only a shaved head,bronze guides, hardened seats etc, very light flywheel, comp clutch, el ignition, big spark coil, wide plugs.Oh, and all urethane suspension. Love her. Next is hi ratio rockers, then headers to get the poop out, then triple ZS's to get it in. 2 are so easy to sync , I don't see 3 to be that big a deal.Doubt I'll need to go much further than that, not 16 any more.And she's already tons of fun.Last night I just went driving, beautiful night, half moon, got home around 2 am, just did not want to stop.
Peter
Peter Gooch

In my case the triples were the "last" engine mod.
Brent B

So, nobody's doing anything cam-wise? If so, what?

Rick O.
Rick Orthen

Rick, I have a Goodparts GP3 cam and high ratio roller rockers in my car. I had the the block blue printed and bored 60 over. I have a Jacobs ignition and had the head ported and polished. The compression ratio is 9.75 to 1. My engine was dynoed before I installed it. The engine is producing 178 hp at the fly wheel. I eat a lot of rice burners.

DL Harding

Whoa, DL - that sounds like one hot TR!

I've the GP2 & 1:1.55 RR's, 9.6 CR, Crane electronic ignition w/Lucas Sports coil. Head ported & polished, dual ANSA exhaust. Vacuum advance dist., Magnacor's, electric fan... My diet is probably not as rich in rice as yours....

Brent
Brent B

Brent,

I love looking at the expression on their face after they just got dusted by a 28 year old car. Most of these kids can only drive in a straight line anyway.
DL Harding

Two quick things

1) DL thanks for the clarification.

2) D'oh! So much for those HS6s.
SteveP

Brent/DL--How did you get your CR (head thickness is? cylinder diameter is?)? What fuel RON do you have to use? Shortened/tubular pushrods? Cam bearings?

Rick O.
Rick Orthen

Rick, To get the CR up I don't know whether the machine shop milled the head or the block or both. I did have cam bearings installed. I had shortened tubular pushrods installed also. I only use name brand gas (Amoco, Sunoco)high test. If you keep the CR below 10 to 1 you can run pump high test. Anything over that and you are looking at Cam2. You will need a good multi spark electronic ignition too. I hope this helps.
DL Harding

Rick - I chose a moderate set-up to avoid cam bearings. From the researching it seems that bearings aren't necessary if you keep the valve lift (and associated cam loading) below 0.4" or so. I'm sure that's a bit conservative to some, though.

The head was milled to get the CR up - the block doesn't need to be decked unless you're going for a CR > 10:1 (not recommended for a street car.

Pushrods are tubular and shortened, and nothing but "name brand" premium goes in the tank.

Brent
Brent B

Brent, It sounds like our cars are very similar. I hope to some day see your car.
DL Harding

Brent--Help me here. How does one figure out proper pushrod length? Do you simply use the stock head thickness-to-pushrod length ratio to figure a revised length based on a skimmed head thickness? For simplicity, let's assume the stock 1:1.45 rocker gear is being used.

Rick O.
Rick Orthen

Hey, Rick. Presuming you start with tubular pushrods the same length as "stock", you cut off the same length of tube as the head was milled down. The pushrods I bought from one of the "Big 3" (VB, I think) were already shortened for a higher compression head, however.

For simplicity I think it's quite safe to ignore the any effect from the angle shift from different roller rocker ratios - it is negligble compared to what's milled off the head.

Brent
Brent B

This thread was discussed between 29/10/2003 and 06/11/2003

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