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Triumph TR6 - Update - Rear Hub Bearings
I was unable to get the rear hub grease seals from the supplier who provided the Timken bearings so I got the seals from Obsolete Auto in Ontario, Canada. Today, after pulling another hub apart with the tool pictured in a previous thread of mine - Hub Puller with pics, I learned that the bearing races were not included with the Timken bearings. The Timken part numbers on the races are LM 29710 (large) and L 44610 (small) so you'll need to order these separately from your local supplier. Once again, bearing #'s are Timken LM 29749 and L 44649. Incidentally, previous threads indicate difficulty in pulling the hub but today, with the puller pictured, using a pipe wrench with a steel-pipe as an extension on the big bolt, the hub popped with only as much torque as any 150 lb. person could apply.
1976 - TR6
|Bob - this is an interesting thread about a rear hub/axle failure in Sweden and the opinion of a German enthusiast with a theory on why they shear.|
|Roger-That is a very sobering thread and may cause me to lose sleep. I have rebuilt about 3 sets of hubs and have found that impact seems to work better than pressure in separating the hub. I made a fixture to support the flange and protect the thread then use a sledge hammer to pop it apart. The last set I did for a friend with the condition that the axles be dye checked. It is still a source of worry. A long time ago I bought a TR4a that had an extra hub assembly in the trunk. All looked well untill I separated the hub and found that the keyway in both the axle&hub had split. |
I will remember this thread when I am bombing down the freeway at 70+mph.
|Berry - it is indeed sobering.|
We do need to very careful as our ageing cars are just hunks of metal, parts of which are very much at their 'use-by' date!!
|Agreed! I had a RL bearing set replaced just last week. When advised by the mechanic, I didn't hesitate one moment on having it replaced.|
| I noticed that Goodparts(www.goodparts.com)has upgraded axle/hub assemblies that use cv joints. I don't know their origin, but Richard Good has a very good (no pun) reputation for quality performance parts. Spendy at $800 a side, but might be cheap in the long haul.|
|Very interesting posts guys. Would love to have that high end CV assembly but alas, a garage for the TR beckons and is # 1 priority this Summer. Nevertheless, I have to report success in installing the left side axle with new bearings. Very quiet, as I remembered it before the whirring started in the left rear. So nice to hear the throaty rumble of that Falcon SS exhaust without the added symphony of tired bearings, While no noise yet, I will be doing the right side also as preventative maintenance. Very nice TR in those pics!! Lucky he didn't crunch the bodywork. BTW - may take a 175 lb person to move that hub - be prepared to haul very hard on it but it does pop quite satisfactorily with the right torque.|
1976 - TR6
| Free to someone who wants them. A jig to hold the hub and spanners to fit the large nuts. I'll even pay to ship them.|
I'm planning to do my hubs this winter...I'll take the jig but I'd be happy to pay..
|While this thread is still alive, it would be interesting to conduct a survey of known cases of broken axles with details of how the car was driven, carb or PI, suspected cause of failure, and if the hub was re-built. If I re-manufactured hubs for a fee, I would be very concerned about the liability issue.|
After you're done, I might be interested in a loan for the tools, if you will.
|For the Southern Ont. drivers:|
I had Joe at J&J replace the hub bearing on both sides last year and now have a nagging tick coming from the rear passenger side wheel. Joe was extremely expensive and claims to have required 850 lbs to press the hubs apart. In the end, it would have been cheaper to buy the rebuilt hubs for the US supplier.
This thread was discussed between 22/07/2007 and 07/08/2007
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