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Triumph TR6 - Voltmeter Wiring
|Hi folks... |
My voltmeter does not work so I have pulled the dash back a few inches to look more closely before I assume that the gauge is pooched.
The Advanced Auto Wire schematic for factory stock wiring says there should be a double white and a black connected to this gauge. Mine has the double white on one terminal, a red/white hot and black ground on its light, and a double green on the other terminal.
Anyone know whether this double green is correct? Is the Voltmeter also a Voltage Stabilizer in later models? I see in the Bentley that when the car has an ammeter it also has a voltage stabiliser but I do not know where the voltage stabilizer is on my car if I have one.
BTW, I have a double green on my Temp Gauge and it works so there's no mix up with that guage.
76 (March CF54309)
PS. If anyone has a Q re dash removal I'll cover that in another post. It's rather simple once the Windshield Wiper/Washer knob is off, the speedo & tach are disconnected and the hinge on the cubby box is removed.
|I should add that I do not see a Dan Masters reference book (that some of you refer to) on TR6 Factory Stock Wiring for sale at the Advance Auto Wire website. I see only tech literature on the new wiring harnesses they sell. They also don't list a phone number nor answer emails. I see that the company is under new ownership. |
Is there a book out there that tells me how every wire should be for a 76? I don't like to keep bugging you guys on the BBS.
BTW, does the Haynes book on "Electrical" I see listed in the Victoria British catalog have all the answers? I'd rather refer to a manual that breaks all the TR6 down into how each part of the car should be wired. It seems that the general schematics don't tell the whole story... notwithstanding what the DPO has done.
|Gees Ken, So many questions so little time How about numbering them so we can answer?|
The green wire is a switched wire that is doing the same as the white wire. On my Masters panel I have done what you have. Green for the power.The double wire just means it goes elsewhere after that.
The colored wire diagram from Dan answers all the questions about what each wire does.
Green is switched power.
Purple is always live power.
White is usually coil related as
brown is starter and main power related.
Blue is lights
Red is marker lights and acc lighting.
Striped wires usually come from a switch or power source and to a accessory as a light or etc
actually, wiring on these things is pretty darn simple.
|Hey Don... I'm keeping you guys thinking, right! Keeps Alzheimers at bay. |
Sounds like my gauge is done then unless I can trace the twinned whites & greens to a fault. At the bottom of the gauge's glass there are stains that indicate water may have gotten in there so the thing could be corroded up.
Question #246: Can I attach 12 volt power directly to the gauge's terminals to test it?
The gauge may still be working. I get fog on the inside of mine under certain conditions. The gauge can be disassembled and examined. Also I would think if you put 12Vs across the terminals it should register 12Vs ( from your car battery).
You can apply a little flat black paint to clean up the gauge face. Also you can touch leads from a volt meter across the terminals to see if you have 12V (ignition on). Ken remember THE biggest problem with TR6 wiring is bad grounds.
You have a VS and it is attached to the back of the spedo.
"Is there a book out there that tells me how every wire should be for a 76? "
Ken, the schematic tells you this. Ignore that the wire goes into a harness. It will end up where the schematic says it does. Like Don said, 2 same colour wires going to the same connection just means one of them is just going somewhere else.
I can not explain why your colour of wiring to the volt meter is different than Dan's schematic. I have found his schematics to be very accurate. Sorry to say Ken but consider who put your TR6 back together.
Dan Master's indeed penned an Electrical Repair Manual. I have a copy with a yellow cover. I'll try to find one for you.
|That's good of you Doug. I have the schematic as mentioned but geez it would be nice to look at a picture of an actual relay or whatever (with circles & arrows) where it shows exactly where every wire goes... and that format is repeated in a reference book for every part of the car... a dream resource. |
Maybe I'll rent a time machine and go back and buy a new TR6 (one from each year) and bring them forward to use as a point of reference. But then again, I'd have long hair, sideburns, and window pane check pants... argh!
PS. Thanks for helping to all of you guys. If I could stay with one faulty area (like the horn) and work it 'till it honks I'd be more successful. Trouble is, I pull something apart and find 10 things I want to restore! It's my OCD... it's no fun. More Q's than A's at this point.
|Ken and anyone interested, I talked with Dan Masters via email. His manual, "TR 250 and TR 6 Electrical Maintenance Manual" may be purchased directly from him. Contact him at email@example.com. You may check out the manual at: http://members.aol.com/danmas6/ and it's carried in stock by TRF, MOSS and 6-Pack if you rather order from them than direct from Dan.|
|This is great Doug, thank you. I have emailed Dan and hope to hear from him soon.|
Just heard back from Dan today (Sunday). I have ordered a copy at $37 (USD) delivered via Air to Canada. Looking forward to my winter reading. Thx again.
The funny part is you plan to take this book back to the USA for the winter.
Some good reading material for the head.
|Hi Rick... yep that's true but I'm guessing I'd have to use mail-order stateside too. |
I am optimistic that with this book I can take anything apart on this car in future (including the entire dash) and reassemble with easy to follow step by step instructions. Hope to help others too with my experiences.
What I really need is a hook behind my fifth wheel for the TR so I can fix & play all winter too.
|Ken I can recommend a great tow bar and where to attach it!!|
This thread was discussed between 16/10/2008 and 27/10/2008
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