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Triumph TR6 - What to look for mechanicaly
|I just finished my MG rebuild, now my friend wants me to go over his TR 6. What should i look for? I know it needs calipers, coolant hoses, has a groning, rubbing noise in rear suspension, chassis is good. Throttle linkage is worn, needs 2 tires, [redline- coker?]Quick look @ rear -3rd member-suspension looks tight, but there is a clunk after a hard braking.What is the life of the carb rubber diaphrams. TIA Len|
no one has jumped in here to help so I thought I would give it a shot. No one has answered..well..because where does one start.
First off there are many helpfull present and past threads dealing with pretty well all issues of a TR6.
1. Calipers can be rebuilt in most cases.
2. Hoses well that is just age.
3. The groaning rubbing noise sounds like it could be a uj.
4. Maybe the throttle linkage is not worn but simply needs lubrication and tightening. The control rod assembly u will notice has a screw tightening a ball joint-lubricate this with grease. The pedal and shaft assembly passes through the fire wall twice--are the bushings at both points there/OK?
5. Tyres are a personal choice...redlines are expensive but I think make a TR6 a TR6.
6. Not sure who is the 3rd member of the rear suspension...who is the 1st and 2nd?
But...weak points of rear suspension are: The frame where the trailing arm attaches, the front of the trailing arm mounting brackets and bushings, also for your clunk after a hard stop check the shock link assembly and its bushes.
The dif mounting points,especially right front, are a weak point and can cause a clunk.
7. Life of a diaphram...well many things could be said here but let us stick with TRs. Simply if in doubt, replace so may as well do a carb rebuild. If there is a hole in the diaphram..well enough said:) Check for air leaks in the hoses going to/from carbs...many past threads this subject with CAUTIONS!
Both hydraulic systems must be check over thoroughly. I would suggest a flush and refill with DOT 4 Castrol LMX....I assume the 2 systems are not DOT 5 currently. There is an extensive past thread (2002?) re this subject.
Also on the clunk read current thread "rear clunk yet again".
The obvious thing with older cars is wear. Saftey is most important. Simply anything that is used to move/stop/control the car while driving should be thoroughly check and replaced if in doubt!!!
A must have,IMHO, are the 2 Spare Parts Catalogues (volumes 1&2) from
Finally (for me),There are many suppliers for parts for our cars. There is a current thread this subject.
Have fun Len
|Thanks Rick; Also wondering about the front tire wear, on the outer edge, what is the camber spec? How does the dist. vacuum retard work on a '76? As it is not manditory for emission checks in N.Y. after 25 years. Gear box / steering rack & pinion lube 90 wt? GL4? Len|
following considers 2 people in the car.
Wheel allignment: 0 to1/16" toe in
Camber..front: 1/4* negative ( +/- 1/2*)...yup that is the spec...wierd!
Camber..rear: 1* (+/- 1/2*)
Caster: 2 3/4* (+/- 1/2*)
For the retard,u are better to get an answer from a later year owner as I do not have all the polution control stuff u do...I am a '71 owner. There are many past threads on this subject. It seems some guys disconnect it.
You had to ask me on the gear oil... eh? Read some past threads this subject and you will catch my drift. But yes 90W GL4 is good. This is not your only choice. Please do not use GL5 though!!
This thread was discussed between 04/06/2002 and 10/06/2002
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