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Triumph TR6 - Wheel adjustments

My 1971 TR6 front and rear wheels are toed out at the bottom. How do I make the adjustment to correct?
Robert Wisler

Front camber adjustment ( not 'toe' ) is done by removing shims between the inner ends of the lower wishbones and the brackets on the chassis. Standard spec is slight positive camber - the top of the wheel leans out - of 1-2 degrees. But mine is set to about 1 deg. negative., this helps cornering.Racers use nearer 3 deg negative - but can presumably afford the tyre wear.Remove or add shims equally to the front and rear so as to retain correct toe-in - mine is set to a total of 1/16".
Rear adjustment is not so easy. Some change can be made by swapping between the 3 different types of trailing arm bracket. But changing to shorter springs - usually stiffer too -makes big difference to rear camber. Then you can add annular shims under the spring to fine-tune camber.I have about 1 deg. negative.Toe-in will change too -this is corrected with shims between the bracket and chassis.
Camber guaues not necessary - do it with a plumb line with car on level ground, and a ruler.
Getting the suspension right - espaecially stiffening spring rates makes huge improvement to TR6 handling- probably the most cost-effective mod. Peter
pcobbold@email.msn.com

This thread was discussed between 28/04/1999 and 30/04/1999

Triumph TR6 index

This thread is from the archive. The Live Triumph TR6 BBS is active now.