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Triumph TR6 - Wheel bearing cap
|I need to remove a grease cap to replace a wheel bearing. The cap seems fairly stubborn to remove and I am concerned about doing damage. |
Are there any secrets to removing the cap?
The manuals suggest using a screwdriver. Is it safe to tap the screwdriver with a hammer?
From what I recall, the hole in the end of the cap should be used to gain a purchase on the cap itself and pull it from it's anchor. It's press fitted into the housing. If that is awkward or you have no tool small enough to exploit the hole, I suggest a rubber mallet gently applied around the circumference. Should come right out. I'd use a screwdriver on the edges as a last resort and with an eye to replacing the cap afterwards.
I had a terrible time trying to remove my caps - eventually I succeeded using a chisel and rubber mallet. A few taps was all it took. Sadly I had already mangled the caps pretty badly trying screwdrivers and such, but the chisel actually did very little damage - nothing a bit of sanding wouldn't fix anyway.
I put a screw in a dent puller, one with a slide hammer. I inserted the screw into the hole of the cap and it came out with ease.
|John-The old caps will probably be pretty mangled after you get them off with channel locks and or a screwdriver. I would suggest you get new caps, drill a 3/16" hole in the center, and weld or braze a #12 nut on the outside of the cap. Next time you need to remove the cap, screw a bolt in the nut and it will push the cap off.|
You took the words right out of my mouth.
That is exactly what I did and yes I destroyed them trying to get them off the first time.
A little anti-seize on the caps "lip" will help with removal down the road.
|Hi Rick-I think the caps on the older TRs or Mgs had drilled&tapped holes in the caps to make removal easy. I suppose it was eliminated to save a few cents. |
I got it out with no problem. I inserted a large self-tapping screw in the opening, attached vise-grips, and pulled outward. Popped off easy.
|John, I like Rick's idea about the anti seize when you install it.|
|Anyone have a rule of thumb or guiding set of criteria or principles or pray tell...a list of all applications...of which connnections to apply antizeize and which to apply locktite??|
|You apply locktite to things you want to stay and anti seize to things you probably remove|
|Well Don, I've removed practically EVERY connector on this LBC in this restoration, some of which I probably should not have. Would I then put antiseize on all of them? I think not. Many'll get locktite when they go back, but I guess with a bit of exertion, it can be overcome if you ever need to remove them again.|
A good question.
Consider our cars originally with loctite applied to certain locations. It was never to come apart!..... yet is has. WE, the ones who put the loctite there are now asking a question. SSSSOOO do WE put loctite or antiseize on it for our great-grand children to ponder this same question in another 30 yrs???
A VERY good question Doug.
OK, all kiddin' aside. If you do not want it comming apart at 100MPH then apply loctite.
|Thanks Rick...so now who has the answer. What do we put locktite on and what, antiiseize? For starters the studs and brass nuts on the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe will get antiseize!! Don't know about others.|
VOLI of TRF show the sale of loctite for areas of the dif and axle shafts.
That is the only place I have noticed it in either Volume.
Antisieze...you mention one. Another is a little on spark plug threads (will not do any harm).
The flat head machine screws holding the rear brake drums to the hubs.
A good thought would be to think of things that WILL need to come apart at some time for periodic maintenance that are subject to heat that might cause it to seize in place.
|Rick, sounds like the start of a set of criteria for these issues. Thanks.|
Definitely on the driveshafts. Even with Nyloc nuts, which were brand new, they were backing off after 2 driving seasons. Just got my freshly rebuilt differential back in last Wednesday night, and the guy helping me accused me of being redundant with loctite on nyloc nuts. They only have to come loose once (for me to learn the lesson), and fortunately there was no damage. Found 'em when I was checking the car over after driving back from Lake Tahoe Triumphest in '04. We drove a lot of that trip at 80-90 mph. (Don't tell) Really glad I didn't get into the autocross, but I really thought about it.
Anyway, after all that, I'll fight through the hard removal for the peace of mind knowing they won't come apart on their own.
|Use metal lock instead of nylon. Thinner too.|
Hey Rod, is the 4 cyl in the Acura the same as the 4 in the Accord?
What model and year Acura vs what model and year Accord.
Eternally the parts guy.....
Doesn't Acura only make 1 4 cyl?
And Accord only has 1 4 cyl
|OK.....Here's what I know....|
The 09 TSX engine is a K24Z3. The 09 Accord uses the same K24Z3. I would figure there are differences in manifolding and engine management that give the TSX the edge, asd it is rated at 201 HP, and the Accord at 190. If you go to www.acura.com and www.honda.com - you can compare specs side-by-side!
We were just advised last week (as was the rest of the world) that the new TSX will be offered with a V-6 this year.
Is that enuf?
|.......and let's get back to Triumphs........|
|Thanks Rod. The wife just started shopping for a new car.|
Maybe you can find her a Triumph Acclaim?
|k v morton|
This thread was discussed between 05/03/2009 and 12/03/2009
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