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Triumph TR6 - Whole lotta shaken
I took my 1970 tr6 out his weekend for a little drive. It ran great, but then about a 1/2 hour into the drive when i came to a stop and tried to go the whole car shook. It shook pretty bad upon leaving the stop sign, came to another stop a couple blocks down and it did it again upon take off. After that it didn't do it again, but then again I headed for home. Any insight to what may be causing this?
|It could be the clutch sticking.|
Don Elliott, 1958 TR3A
|Robert, it could be your ignition too. Its hard to tell from the description. I would think it would be easy to tell if it was the clutch. If it isn't the clutch, check your rotor arm. I had a weird problem like that and discovered that a little plastic piece on the rotor arm had broken off. It looked okay on a cursory exam, and would work off and on (until I took it out to really examine it). And buy a spare!|
As previously stated it could be a misfire or clutch.
I happened to have had the clutch problem. My clutch would chatter upon release when taking off from a stop. It got worse as the engine heated up. I relaced the worn clucth disk and other clutch related components that were worn. That did the trick.
For me it was very obvious it was the clutch and not ignition or fuel related. The car had a pretty distintive "shudder" when launching from a stop and the "shudder" seemed very perportional to the amount of slip I was giving it. I developed a technique where I would let out the clutch with very little throttle, almost to the point of stalling, and when the clutch was fully closed with no slip I applied throttle and there would be no chatter. So, with all that I was sure it was the clutch. Fuel or spark problems should be present regardless of the clutch slip.
Hope that helps
|HP Henry Patterson|
|Thanks everyone, looks like Henry has hit the nail on the head. I guess I'll be doing a clutch this summer, any suggestions on best brand?|
|I installed the magic clutch with the Gunst throwout bearing kit, from TRF. The cross shaft fork pins have blocks that fit very snuggly into the bearing (they only install one direction)and provide additional surface area contact to reduce wear. Also there is a spring you have to install under the car on the cross shaft arm to keep the bearing in constant contact (it will constantly spin)with the clutch. When you buy the Gunst kit, it comes with detailled installation instructions for dummies like me! The clutch is very smooth, solved my problem, and I am very happy with it.|
|I've seen that set up advertised, it kinda goes against everything I've learned about release bearings and free play. I was always told to have free play on the release bearing so as not to wear the bearing out. This Gunst setup has it touching the pressure plate all the time, no problems with wear or premature failure? Anyone.|
This thread was discussed between 08/06/2005 and 11/06/2005
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