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Triumph TR6 - Winterizing
|This will be the first winter that I don't have a project keeping the six in the warm garage over the upcoming snow & ice months. So, out on the driveway it's going 'till spring. I plan on giving it a last wash/wax, change the oil, remove the battery, top up the fuel tank w/stabilizer, seal the exhaust tips and carb intakes, and put a breathable cover on. I can't put it up on all fours with jackstands as my driveway is a steep incline. Is there anything I missed? Should I fog the intake and/or squirt oil in the cylinders? Thanks guys.|
Personally since it will be outside I'd fog it till it stalls..I found that you'll need 2 spray cans as with 1 can going from carb to carb it's harder to make it stall...drain the carbs of fuel and squirt 4 or 5 shots of oil at different angles and crank it over a few times to spread the oil in the cylinders.
Check it regularly for fuel leaks. As I found last winter, the top of the gas tank is higher than the carbs. I had several gallons of fuel on the garage floor due to carb leakage. This, or course, happened when it was near zero. Is was fun plugging a leak while freezing my tailfeathers off.
Don from Jersey
|Thanks Don & Charlie. I'll clamp the fuel line shut as close to the tank as possible (I have one of those nifty hose-friendly clamps).|
|Rick- how about putting a pitcock on the fuel line. Then it would be easy to run it dry and you won't have the problem Jersey Don had.|
|I do all of those things, but I'm curious as to whether it is better to change oil before winterizing or drain oil and let it sit till spring then top up. Anyone have any thoughts?|
|Pete--Absolutely change the oil before storage as it contains acids, moisture, and general gunk. You don't want that crapola sitting in the sump corroding everything. Guess the hardcore crowd would consider refilling with fresh oil and running a bit and draining that to flush out the nasty stuff. You could, however, not refill with fresh oil after the drain IF you put a big sign on the dash "ADD OIL".|
|Don!! Petcock is a great idea. Thanks! Lowes/Home Depot have it?|
|Rick, I do realize that you need to drain out old oil and NOT let it sit. However, is it a good idea to let new oil sit in the sump that long. When it is new and packaged, it is in a sealed container. Looks like it is that time again.|
Definately keep new oil in.
|Rick- I got mine from a lawnmower shop.|
|Rick, how about driving it on dry days through the winter? Shouldn't hurt anything. A damn good coat of wax before you put that car cover on will help keep abrasion of your paint at a minimum. The wind is gonna make it rub a million times a minute during a blizzard. I've left my TR4 out in the drive for 3 winters now, no cover, driving it when it's dry. It's kinda fun seeing a foot of snow on a TR. When you push the snow off, it's kinda like a chamois effect, takes all the dirt with it. Also kinda fun to hit the top from the inside after a freezing rain, sheets of ice flying. Again, the dirt from your top remains frozen in the ice.|
As for the heater, the TR heats quicker than the minivan, just leaks more cold air on the highway. The defroster, however....sucks.
Just my dos centavos.
|I am able to keep mine inside and this will be the first winter I don't have any big 3R plans....|
repair/replace/re-do so I plan to take it out on the dry road days throughout the winter. I still remember driving my TR4 back in the 70's on sunny days in the winter with the top down, heater blasting and me wearing a parka....ahhhh to be young and foolish again which is better than old and foolish I guess !
|Pete--I'm with you on not refilling until the spring; no sense having new oil in the sump with nowhere to go. If you are very curious about all things oil, visit www.bobistheoilguy.com.|
I'd love to take the six out on dry winter days, but I'm a bit paranoid about the salt residue/dust on the roads. Here in hilly PA the roads get carpet-salted at the slightest threat of snowfall and it takes a couple of good spring showers to wash the stuff off. I envy you folks who can drive on flat snow-covered roads; if I was there, my six would be a four-season driver.
Incidently, how does a six handle on snow-packed roads? Would "oversteer" be the appropriate description?
72 TR6 "under wraps soon"
I put a tap (petcock??sounds like we are talking about a boat:)in the fuel line at the rubber joiner just at the bottom of the fuel tank. This drains the enrire line to and oncluding the carbs. I think a much better idea than leaving the rubber hose "clamped" all winter.
Yes, fog the engine like Bill says and the squirt of oil in the cylinders. It is kinda a trick to guess when you drain the fuel lines as to when to start the fog:)
I have been told that at fog time and spring for the start up to use an old set of plugs. Apparently if you operate with modern platinum plugs the fog stuff is not good for them....fowling them up.
Surprises me to hear people will be leaving their 6s outdoors for the winter...not me...there is always something to do. Besides, I can go out to the garage, turn on my over grown bunsen burner, and dream of summer driving:)
A question for you chaps south of the border. Where can one buy a "battery tender"? The type that shuts off when it senses a full charge. I am tired of putting the big charger to the battery during the winter.Thanks.
Check with Jeff Zorn at LBCARCO....part # 386-245...
I am looking for other lodging for the TR6 this winter, as I don't want to leave the truck (daily winter driver) out in the weather. If it isn't one thing, it's another....I just hope to keep the car close enough that I can drive it once every couple of weeks or so, weather permitting! (I can dream)
Someone suggested to me years ago to take a bag of charcoal brikites(sp) cut it open and lay it across
the seats. Suposed to keep mould and mildew to a mimumum, soaks up moisture and keeps critters away.
I've done it for years and have had no mould, mildew,water or critter problems. Could just be
coincidence I guess but a bag of Kingsford charcoal
only costs afew bucks so for me it's worth it.
Hilly Penn.! I drove down to the Roadster Factory summer bash last year and enjoyed some of the best driving roads I've ever come upon. Triumph country!
P.S. Are sure you can't think of something to do to her this winter?
|Rod- You can keep your car at my house . It's a long way for an afternoon drive and the weather is a little more iffy than your area.|
Oh by the way, you have to leave the keys and a full tank of gas!
|Rod--Thanks for the LBCCo P/N. They don't use salt in I-Dee-Ho do they? Keep it going if not.|
Chris--The charcoal idea is a good one. I've had so much fun after last winter's head/cam project that I can't bring myself to another project this winter. I could R&R the gearbox to install the Gunst kit and a lightened flywheel, but why mess wih something that's not broken?
Yes, the hills of PA (or the hills of anywhere for that matter) are great Triumph lanes. Keep the rev counter between 4K & 5K on the twisties and see me grin! A run across the state on I-80 this time of year is awesome. But deer collisions are a common occurrence and make me a bit wary.
DITO.. thanks for the suggestion to Jeff. I just placed an order with Jeff and will pick up on way back from Chicagoland. I saw that charger (Jeff..$50.00) but it is intended to permanently install in a car...does not have aligator clips. The one I want I have seen talked about on speed channel. I will try Auto Zone or Pep Boys.
Last time I drove to Chicago, I counted 15 deer road kills and a few smaller critters. I try to do most of my driving in daylight.
The IDENTICAL (Schumacher MFG.) brand battery tender from MOSS #386-245 is stock item at AutoZone and is $27.00. The one I want...with aligator clips and also ring terminals is $30.00.
Wallmart also carries Schumacher brand..but I think just the 386-245 unit.
It pays to search the WEB:)
This thread was discussed between 05/10/2004 and 07/10/2004
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