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Triumph TR6 - Wiper ? For Chris Trace
|Chris- This is an old post from 2002|
"I thought my old style rocker light switch
was toast too until I opened it up. Remove it
from the dash, drill out the plastic spot welds
and pry it apart carefully, there is a small ball bearing in there that you
don't want to lose.
On mine the copper contact points needed alittle
cleaning and to be slightly bent out a bit to
give a tighter contact.This repair is much easier
than cutting out the dashboard and under lying dash
mounting plate to fit new style switch."
Do you remember where the spot weld was? I don't see it. Any chance the
wiper switch is different than the light switch
I hope I do not get heck from Mr. Trace, but I know this is his busy time and he might not mind me trying to answer this.
The plastic spot welds maybe where the "rocker" part of the switch (the part you push to turn wipers on/off) is mounted to the switch itself. The pin the rocker sits on may be "melted" over to form a "cap" so the switch will not come off..(hopefully this is clear to you).
If you drop the ball bearing on the floor, you may as well toss the switch:) The ball bearing is held in-place with a tinny-ity-bitty spring and tends to want to fly when the switch is opened:).
|Rick I'l get you'll for that,|
Don, I'll mail you my perfectly working original light switch, no charge, if you want it.I replaced it thinking it it was the problem, it was not. But the new one is installed and I have original up for grabs. The problem was a short up front.
I had a rocker light switch meltdown on my 73. When I took it apart I couldn't believe that they ran all that current through that cheap plastic switch.
I ended up buying a new, probably 60's vintage, high current push-pull light switch with a built in circuit breaker. It also twists to dim the dash lights. Some of you may remember that type. I wired the new switch and installed it in a little Radio Shack box and mounted it up under the dash where it's easily accessible but out of site. I just left the original switch in its place as a "dummy" switch. If I had more time I would probably wire the original switch to control the low current side of a relay and have the high current side of the relay run the lights.
Just thought I would add a different perspective.
|HP Henry Patterson|
|Chris- My switch in question is the wiper switch.I to have gone away with the light switch (mine was stalk mounted). I went the way of Obi Wan Masters and replaced mine with a GM style.|
Rick I am not sure I see what you describe.
The switch, the part you actually push to control wiper speed, has to "pivot" in order to have multi positions. Look where the switch pivots.
Chris what!!... you wanna race?
|Don, My wiper switch is the turn to the right kind,|
sorry I can't help.
Rick, does that mean you have her back on the road
or do you intend to race me with that mean grocery getter of yours.
Well not quite yet but real soon. After taking the clutch back out and seeing that I had done everything correct, we put the clutch back in. When putting the slave back on, I noticed that the slave cylinder would "spin" on the red hose. I put a small mechanical hose clamp on it and voila! an operating clutch. I will order the braided flex hose and get rid of the "3000 mi. 4year old" original equipment style of flex pipe. So I will put the interiour back in hopefully this week. It is a short week as I head for the Molson Indy on Thursday till Monday....an annual adventure for 6 guys, a Yacht at Ontario Place, 3 bottles of single malt, a double draft keg cooler, and 2 kegs of wabley pop. Tough life EH?
Oh Ya...talk about oil pressure....sweet! Running better after burning off some of the assembly lube:) Will definitely have to sync the carbs now that all 6 cans are operating properly.
This thread was discussed between 28/06/2005 and 04/07/2005
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