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Triumph TR6 - Yet another dumb question

For those who have done a body off restoration AND/OR the Differential reinforcement task, please see attached and advise...are these original reinforcements and to effect the recommended modification do I grind away these welded plates in favor of replacing them with the reinforcement kit both front and rear?
db

Doug Baker

Rear diff mounting. Wouldn't take 2 photos!!
db

Doug Baker

Doug

Looks original to me.

Alistair

A Hewitt

Hard to tell with 100% certainty given the angle from which you took the pictures, but I would venture say that yours hasn't recieved "the treatment." Go to Plate DC if you have one of the old hard copy TRF Blue books and look at items DC12 and DC13. Failing that, go to the online Blue Book and look at plate CX and the parts list on the next page. There's a page on the parts list page that talks about the reinforcement bits.

If we go back 20+ years, I picked mine up from Jeff Sloan at British Auto Specialist in Fort Worth. The ones he had predated the offerings from TRF and were originally developed by the then chief engineer at Stevens Graphics (odds are that if you've carried US Currency, Sterling or Francs/French printed Euros some of it was printed on Stevens equipment) who had broken the mounts on his TR-6. Something about neccessity and the Mothers of Invention....
SteveP1

Looks original to me Doug

I made up my own reinforcment plates and welded them in. But I don't have a good picture of them.
Michael Petryschuk

I agree with y'all that the frame and reinforcements are original, but why would I want to remove what's there to replace it with much the same especially the rear mounting??
db
Doug Baker

Doug, you aren't cutting anything out and replacing it unless it has already failed beyond reasonable repair. What you are doing is adding gussets and doublers to reinforce the mount structure.
SteveP1

Doug

As per Steve

Do not cut out what you have. Weld in gussets to stengthen the connection to the frame and distribute the forces along different axises.
Michael Petryschuk

Well Steve and Michael, I guess I appropriately titled this thread, 'cause I just don't get it. See attached. This is only part of the kits for the front and rear. The side pieces are back ordered. These look very much like what's already there, but the instructions say to grind down the weld on the head of the bolts, remove them and put these in. Ok, I can follow that, but what about these plates? Do they go over the ones there now? Something about this escapes me. I'd apologize for being so dumb, but it's a like long attribute!!
db



Doug Baker

Doug

What you seem to have received so far is a kit to replace the four original mounting points. The ones you have are probably okay if you don't see any cracks once it is all cleaned up. The gussets for the front points look like the ones in the picture. I made my own, and found that they all needed to be very slightly different shapes, so I am not sure if the pre-cut ones you buy from TRF, Moss etc. will need any fettling. Making them myself was a lot of work - this was before I owned a bench grinder or even an angle grinder, so all done with hacksaw and files.

Cheers
Alistair

A Hewitt

Yep Doug

What you have is a replacement for the existing mounts.

The gussets I made I welded perpendicular to the mounts and inside the frame structure- I know- probably means nothing without a picture or sketch.
Michael Petryschuk

Thanks Mike, Alistair,
It's now clear that I purchased some things that I did not need. Yes, I need to weld in gussets in the front brackets (4) and reinforcement plates on top, but I don't need to replace the 2 front and 2 rear brackets and bolts. No evidence of cracking that I've found. I also have the suspension kit from TRF that has all the rubber (nylatron in my case) and hardware. Thanks for all the responses.
db
Doug Baker

Doug, while you have your pins exposed (ha!) could you please do me the favour of measuring the diameter of the pin itself - greatly appreciated - I am trying to figure out whether mine are the "correct size" or whether the DPO changed things. A mechanic I used last year in Ottawa used duct tape to thicken the pins so that the new supports would be snug; something wrong here on the banks of the Rideau. Thanks in advance. James


James Clugston

James,
No problem, but it'll be this weekend before I have a chance to get back to the shop. The replacement pins I have in the kit measure 9/16 in dia on the top and the threaded portion is 3/8 NSF. I'll have a look at what's on the car and let you know.
db
Doug Baker

James, a lot of times those pins rusted a lot. The mechanic may have been trying to get the pins back to the right od with the tape.

Rob
rw loftus

hi1 I'm first time owner of partially restored 1974 triumph tr6. need to know should I buy new bumpers, mirrors, head liht rims or have them re chromed. shpuld I buy fuses local or order them. any advice appreciated
hr rayborn

hr, my advice is to keep as much of the original stuff as possible. A good triple plating rechroming shop should do your bumpers (less thos God awful rubber thingies) for less than the price of new ones and you'll be sure you have good steel and not some cheap knock-off. Mirrors may be a mite more difficult, and light surrounds...probably cheaper to buy new.
db
Doug Baker

With regard to the reinforcement gussets for the forward Diff attachment points...should they go all the way to the top of the frame member and totally close in that area around the bracket or just across the bracket that extends below the frame member? The frame there curves around forming 3 sides for the brackets. Thanks.
db
Doug Baker

Rob, that is what I thought as well until I measured the holes in the rubber - and they are clearly 5/8". No matter how you look at it they are a bad fit over a 9/16 pin. I will be down to see the mechanic early next week to sort things.
James Clugston

James,
All the holes in ALL my new rubber (Nylatron) are 5/8". Pin remains 9/16". Seems to be intentional!!
db
Doug Baker

Doug

Isn't there supposed to be a metal sleeve in the mounting rubber? I remember swearing at one of the rear mounts for well over a week while trying to get the rusted sleeve off the pin. That might account for the larger hole diameter in the rubber? Pretty sure that the front mounts have no such sleeve, though.

Alistair
A Hewitt

Alistair, the trailing arms "rubber" has a sleeve. I'll check the others and advise.
db
Doug Baker

Doug

I found a picture showing the metal sleeve in the rear mounts - I would say 1/16 inch thick looks right, and would reduce the hole from 5/8 to 9/16. Maybe the sleeve isn't used with nylatron? I am almost certain that the front mounts have no sleeve, but if memory serves, the mounting pins have a step above the thread - the nuts are 9/16UNF, so the shaft of the pin could easily be 5/8".

Cheers
Alistair



A Hewitt

Alistair,
The shaft does have a step down to the threads, but the diameter remains 9/16", at least on the new ones I got from TRF. I'll post up data later.
db
Doug Baker

Doug

Sorry - I posted that late last night and somehow forgot that the thread if 3/8UNF, I guess because that means 9/16 spanner (or wrench, if you must!). I just zoomed in to the picture of the pins on my car, and (very unscientifically, I know) measured the diameter at the threaded section, which we know is 3/8". Then I measured the pin, and it was exactly 50% bigger, so 9/16". This doesn't help you, I know - how you make the 5/8" holes in the bushes work I don't know, but at least you have another data point which, while perhaps not very accurate, is accurate enough to say that the 9/16" diameter pins you received are correct.

Cheers
Alistair
A Hewitt

WHERE IS THE BEST PLACE TO BUY SINGLE CARBURETOR TO REPLACE THE STROMBERGS ON MY 1974 TR6
hr rayborn

HR,

Let me make sure that I understand your question. You are saying that you wish to replace the two CD175 Strombergs with a single carburetor, is this correct or are you looking for a single CD175 to replace one beyond repair that is on the car?
SteveP1

Moss do a single carb conversion - feeds through a supercharger, so maybe not what you are after. That's the only one I have seen though.
A Hewitt

Buehler, Buehler, ....Buehler
SteveP1

This thread was discussed between 31/05/2012 and 19/07/2012

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